Travelling by steam on the Aln Valley Railway, Northumberland, one hears older passengers enjoying a day out talking about as to how the carriages with compartments, luggage racks with netting as well as the distinctive trickety-trock of the old carriages and the chuffing sound of the steam locomotive takes one back. Meanwhile, entering an encampment of tents at nearby Alnwick Castle where an apothecary is demonstrating medieval medicine, a fletcher is making arrows for the longbow master and knights in armour are being readied for combat in a jousting competition, one feels like they have just stepped out of a time machine back to the 15th century. Enjoying both experiences during a day out, as well as seeing how the past is with us in the present, the optimist in me also saw some exciting future potential.
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| No. 9 'Richboro', approaching Lionheart station |
Originally opened in 1850, the original Aln Valley branch line ran from Alnwick to Alnmouth until its closure in 1968 as part of the Beeching cuts. With a vision to reopen the route, the Aln Valley Railway Society was formed in 1995. The project was initially put on hold after plans to build it from Alnwick's original station, now the home of Barter Books, one of Britain's largest secondhand bookshops, would require a bridge to be built across the adjoining A1 dual carriageway. So instead a new terminus, 'Lionheart', was opened in 2012. Sitting on the fringe of a contemporary enterprise park, the line's new terminus, Lionheart, together with the traditional railway environment of locomotive shed and workshop, vintage railway posters and the old luggage in the museum, the visitor can feel like they have stepped back in time. Looking beyond the timeline of the present, the presence of tools and railway parts including sleepers, levers and point rodding as well as volunteers busy in the workshop hammering and welding, the visitor also gets the feeling that a former branch line is gradually reawakening from a track bed long dormant.
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| Alnwick Castle |
Similarly, entering Alnwick Castle, when noticing the texture in the stonework, including the various carvings, crests and coats of arms a chronology of both the castle's and the region's history from its founding in 1096, from which some arrowslit windows survive, through 19th century renovation to the present day tourists facilities of gift shops and cafes. Taking a tour through the arches and hallways of one hears stories of battles, conquests, crusades and various disputes from its founder Ivo de Vesci before being sold to the Percy family in the 13th century, from whom the castle's present-day owner, the Duke of Northumberland, is descended. Just like in contemporary times, social media often creates political uncertainty by starting speculation and rumour often creating a backlash in the process, through the passages and hallways, echoes of rumours as to the outcomes of battles and disputes often had deadly consequences. One almost hear the echoes of such rumours, of the exploits of the many Henrys through the Percy family line, especially those of 'Harry Hotspur', made famous by Shakespeare's play Henry IV. Born Henry Percy in around 1364, the son of the 1st Earl of Northumberland (also Henry Percy!), Hotspur gained a reputation as being supremely powerful in combat, most famously in his attacks against the Scots along the borders, with his historical name coming from the Scottish 'Hard Spur'. Hotspur, whose statue stands in the castle grounds, led successive rebellions against Henry IV before being being killed in battle at Shrewsbury in 1403.
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| Longbow master Andy Rice in action |
As well as a visual historical narrative, Alnwick Castle also has a mystical feel, especially when surrounded by misty weather as described by castle guide Gary, which makes in a popular choice for filming purposes. Though made famous in recent times by the Harry Potter films as Hogwarts and Downton Abbey, with some of the indoor scenes being filmed in the castle's state rooms, a not-as-well-remembered film I have fond childhood memories that was also filmed at the castle is
The Spaceman and King Arthur (1979), a film most appropriate for what I was about to experience as a 21st century visitor! Based on Mark Twain's novel
A Connecticut Yankee in King Arthur's Court (1889),
The Spaceman and King Arthur sees American astronaut Tom Trimble and his android lookalike Hermes unintentionally travel back in time to Medieval England, albeit an imagined one. Using their now future from the past 1980s technology, they help King Arthur and his knights foil a plot by Mordred to usurp the throne. The spacecraft turned out to be Tom and Hermes' time machine. As they have so often felt like for me, the steam train I had earlier ridden turned out to be a time machine, but this time taking be into the past, rather than coming from the past! Courtesy of the railway preservation movement, a ride on a heritage railway has become a popular family day out along with visiting places of historic interest such as castles and stately homes. Though I don't have children, there is a often a 'child' inside of me that travels in time and accompanies the adult me and who enjoys the same fascination with steam trains chuffing along the line and the adventures of King Arthur and his Knights of the Round Table riding out on a quest!
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| Sir Steve (left) and Sir Martin (right) clash at the Alnwick Joust |
Seeing the setup for the Alnwick Joust with the pennants and the tilt barrier (the fence that separates the participants) together with the medieval encampment and a master longbow man doing some target practice, one could almost feel they were back in the 15th century, when mounted knights in armour were the Premier League football stars of their day. Like in the 15th century, a contemporary joust is also a contest. But with 21st century health and safety measures, instead of throwing each other off horses, participants score points as to where they strike their opponent with their lance. They score highly if they break their opponent's shield. Points can also be deducted by the Knight Marshall (who acts as the referee) for leveling lances before your opponent or using the lance to barricade their shield. From the chuffing and trickety-trocking of the train, next in the soundtrack of a day of time travelling was the galloping of the horses, the clanking of armour and striking of lances as knights 'Sir Martin', 'Sir Steve', 'Sir Clive' and 'Sir Michael' did battle on their horses 'Contessa', 'Neville', 'Charlamagne' and 'Duke'. One of the world's oldest equestrian sports and said to be England's original national sport, participation requires a high level of concentration in being able to control the horse which can run at up to 30mph, strength, agility and precise aim despite a limited view through the visor. Watching the lances strike the shields and armour at full speed was thrilling! A contest fought in a competitive manner that would have no doubt impressed Harry Hotspur while adhering to traditional chivalric values, for which the Knight Marshall may also award bonus points.
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Lesbury Viaduct on the East Coast Mainline viewed from the Aln
Valley Railway, with which the Aln Valley Trust hopes to connect to
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As well as a family day out, or as it was for me that day, a fantasy adventure through time, railway preservation has also seen Heritage lines become a valuable local resource, providing connections to local landmarks as well as helping to reduce traffic congestion. One of the best known such examples is Dorset's Swanage Railway. Reopening as a steam heritage line in 1982 after strong campaign to reopen the original branch line from Swanage to connect with the mainline at Wareham, near Corfe Castle, which has helped to reduce the number of cars going in and out of the town. With a view to providing a link to the East Coast Mainline, the Aln Valley Railway has similar potential for Alnwick. Though Lionheart station is a fair way from the town centre, it would only be short ride on a bus. An existing example that could be replicated is the
Dunster Castle Express, which operates on the West Somerset Railway. Passengers can purchase tickets to ride a steam-hauled train from Bishop's Lydeard to Dunster, before transferring to a bus to Dunster Castle, which dates from the 11th century.
To date, the Aln Valley's highly dedicated permanent way team have done an excellent job of relaying over half a mile of the original 2.75 miles of the route, including running a train across nearby Cawledge Viaduct for the first time in over 50 years. With the support of the relevant authorities and of course enough funding, there is real future potential in this resource from the past. Could
Steam and Chivalry along an Aln Valley line linking Alnmouth with Alnwick have a similar appeal to the
Dunster Castle Express?
Thank you to Alnwick Castle guide Gary for his informative and entertaining tour through the ages and the Henrys' of the Percy family and to Longbow Master Andy Rice for his excellent demonstration
Many thanks to Historic Equitation a fantastic joust
To find out more about the Aln Valley Railway project and its potential, visit the following link https://www.alnvalleyrailway.co.uk/
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